THE LONDON EDIT
In a city where heritage meets fresh thinking, each corner offers something new – from lively cafés to well-tailored shops, we tune into the rhythms of London’s neighbourhoods.
Inspired by the relaunch of Massimo Dutti’s Oxford Street flagship, this paper takes a fresh look at London – curious, design-led and shaped by the effortless elegance found around every turn.
All Photos and content by @Monocle
North Londoners have been known to claim that even the air is better up there. It’s certainly true that celebrities dead and alive have called its urban villages home, and the stuccoed streets of Belsize Park and the Victorian village of Hampstead have frequently been cast as London’s defining face on the big screen. With increases in prices, though, radical artists and intellectuals are scarcer than when Karl Marx was interred in Highgate Cemetery. Other key neighbourhoods to discover include Islington, Camden and Crouch End, which buzz with restaurants, music venues, theatres and other cultural legacies.
North.
HAMPSTEAD HEATH
The jewel of North London, Hampstead Heath is just as wild as much less-trodden parts of the English countryside, with its heathery moors, dense woods and rolling hills somehow 30 minutes from the heart of the capital. The city skyline unfolds from Parliament Hill with views over neighbouring Highgate behind. In summer (and for some hardy devotees, in winter too) three swimming ponds attract the intrepid, who share the water with the swans, coots and gulls that occasionally nest in the lifeboat rings. Don’t miss the Pergola, a 9-metre-high walkway designed to elevate Edwardian society types above the working classes below. These days it’s overgrown with vines, wisteria and roses.
TOLLINGTON’S
Celebrated London chef Ed McIlroy transformed a 1970s fish-and-chip shop (complete with stainless-steel counter and deep fat fryers) into Tollington’s in 2019. Think British chippy meets Spanish seafood bar. Peer through the glass display to spy devilled crab fritters and Canary Islands-style potatoes, Ibérico hams hanging in the fridge behind. Slim pine counters stand on the original tiled floors, while a back room once used for peeling potatoes now houses Barcelona-style marble-topped tables and a mosaic by artist Anja Maye. The atmosphere of casual boisterousness contrasts a refined seafood menu. Guests stand and lean while they eat patatas bravas cooked in beef dripping, smoked eel omelette or even pork neck with grilled plum – all washed down with a jug of Estrella.
172 Tollington Park,
London N4 3AJ
tollingtons.shop
THE TAMIL PRINCE
A proud Anglo-Indian tradition, Desi pubs have long been a fixture of the British high street. The Tamil Prince is one of London’s more haute offerings, opening in a former Islington pub by a team who graduated from cult Malay favourite Roti King, and who turned their hands to food from south India. Its reputation has grown thanks to authentic, largely vegetarian dishes, such as the popular okra fries or the creamy moilee curry. Elsewhere, the menu ranges from accessible favourites like paneer butter masala (staff recommend pairing this with a spicy margarita) to the pulled beef uttapam, a fluffy dosa pancake served with coconut chilli chutney. Tables go quickly, so book well in advance.
115 Hemingford Road,
London N1 1BZ
thetamilprince.com
PANZER’S
Panzer’s isn’t just a favourite of the many locals living in St John’s Wood – it’s a destination for food lovers across the capital and beyond. First opened in 1944 by the Austrian refugee whose name it still bears, Panzer’s is widely regarded as the poshest grocer’s in London. A recent multi-million-pound refurbishment brought in terrazzo floors, a coffee bar, a pizza oven and a sushi counter. Traditional challah bread and matzo balls are still sold but they now share shelf space with Australian mangos, South African biltong and Lebanese kumquats. Floral displays and a vegetable-laden central island make for a colourful scene.
13-19 Circus Road,
London NW8 6PB
panzers.co.uk
A considered blend of craft, community and considered flair defines East London. Independent shops here champion a maker-first ethos, while cafés and bakeries take provenance seriously, whether that’s semolina sourdough or small-batch pantry goods. The architecture is equally thoughtful, from its reimagined warehouses to gentle Georgian terraces. A short stroll might take you from canal-side espresso stops to low-lit natural wine bars, with moments of green serenity between. So here is a guide to East London at its most assured – creative yet grounded, global in outlook yet entirely singular in feel.
East.
V&A EAST STOREHOUSE
The cavernous 2012 Olympic broadcasting centre in East London has been transformed into the V&A’s new East Storehouse. Architecture lovers will admire the museum space’s industrial bones, reimagined by Diller Scofidio & Renfro. Among the highlights is a reconstruction of The Kaufmann Office, the only Frank Lloyd Wright interior to exist outside the US. Visitors are invited to curate their own experience, thanks to the new “order an object” service, which allows you to see any of the thousands of on-site artefacts.
2 Parkes Street,
London E20 3AX
vam.ac.uk
MIGA
Miga is the Ko family’s labour of love, with patriarch Hyun Sang Ko in the kitchen and supported by his children. The dish to return for? A nourishing ox bone broth, rich in tradition and flavour, handed down from the chef’s mother (once among Seoul’s top cooks). Interiors nod to the family home: whitewashed walls, dark timber and a singular piece of art – an illustration of five ducks, each one representing a family member. It’s heartfelt, humble and beautifully executed, with standout plates such as lively kimchi, beef tartare with pear and that all-important broth – a perfectly poised menu.
1 Mare Street,
London E8 4RP
POPHAMS HOME
Pophams Home champions British artisanship with the same finesse that Pophams bakery brings to its pastry. The shop’s edit includes glassware, beeswax candles, patterned linens and small-batch pantry goods (the raspberry and ginger jam is a must). The ceramics have become hot property, with pieces by the likes of local artist Grace McCarthy and Cotswolds-based Thomas Knowles Jackson. Workshops in making pottery, jewellery and candles add some community spirit and creativity to the retail experience. It’s a handsome tribute to handcrafted living – East London cool made with genuine substance.
197 Richmond Road,
London E8 3NJ
pophamshome.com
FORNO
While East London’s bakery boom shows no signs of slowing, Forno manages to rise above the fray with a distinctly Italian flavour. Founded by the team behind nearby restaurant Ombra, it is tucked beneath a railway arch and marked by a wry sign quoting an online review: “Hectic on the weekends… baking was good, not quite worth the hype.” It’s a playful nod to the social media age but inside, the produce speaks for itself. The standout is undoubtedly the maritozzi: airy brioche bursting with whipped cream, a Roman holiday in pastry form. Stay for coffee or stroll canal-side, pastry in hand.
322 Andrews Road,
London E8 4RP
forno.london
BRUNO
Sitting at the Victoria Park roundabout, Bruno is equal parts wine bar and village meeting post. Founder Michael Sager (of Sager & Wilde fame) brings his natural wine savoir-faire to this space, filled with candlelight and warmth. The walls are lined with hard-to-find bottles, but don’t be daunted – staff offer tastings and tips. Neighbours and newcomers mingle on the cobbles outside, glasses in hand, and a rotation of guest chefs ensures there’s always something new on the menu. Stick around or take a bottle home to relive the convivial charm of this joint and its leafy surrounds.
211a Victoria Park Road,
London E9 7JN
bruno-london.com
OUR LONDON
NEIGHBOUR
HOOD
Central London is where the capital’s heritage meets with modern flair, combining an elegant mix of stately avenues, modest backalleys and cultural cornerstones.
Anchoring this vibrant district is the newly reopened Massimo Dutti flagship on Oxford Street, a sophisticated space that reflects the brand’s design integrity. Just beyond its doors lies a neighbourhood rich with treasures to discover, from cutting-edge galleries to refined cafés, bars and hotels. Whether meandering through a quiet Mayfair mews or soaking in the energy of Soho’s side streets, this guide highlights the local favourites that make the area around Massimo Dutti Oxford Street well worth exploring.
64 Goodge Street
A charming bistro in the heart of Fitzrovia, 64 Goodge Street is a celebration of French cooking, delivered with warmth and precision. The compact dining room – decked out in rich oak and British racing green – is a calm, intimate space that invites conversation and lingering. The menu is confident and comforting: scallops with lentils in beurre blanc, rabbit niçoise, snail bonbons and creamy pommes aligot. The hero, however, is the lobster vol au vent – though the pastry case plays only a minor role. Instead, tender lobster arrives in a deeply flavoured sauce américaine, rich with tomato, stock, brandy and a touch of cayenne. It’s a small restaurant with a generous spirit, and one of central London’s most endearing places to dine.
322 64 Goodge Street,
London W1T 4NF
64goodgestreet.co.uk
MONOCLE
Set a few doors apart on Marylebone’s Chiltern Street, The Monocle Café and Shop distil global, urbane sensibility into a handsome retail and hospitality experience. Start in the café with a cardamom bun and a latte, or linger at one of the cosy downstairs tables over a Japanese curry or an egg sando. Cocktails and wines round out the day, best enjoyed streetside while watching well-heeled types stroll by. Meanwhile at The Monocle Shop, curated lifestyle essentials share floor space with our latest print offerings and a curated collection of other titles. From stationery to select menswear and grooming picks, this is London retail done the Monocle way: precise, warm and always worldly.
18 & 34 Chiltern Street,
London W1U 7QA
monocle.com
BROADWICK SOHO
A maximalist marvel in the heart of Soho, Broadwick is the sort of hotel that makes a lasting impression. Designed by Martin Brudnizki and conceived by a close-knit team of friends, it’s an opulent riff on an eclectic townhouse: 57 rooms of bold patterns, joyful colours and high-spec finishes. Two towering pink elephants in top hats stand sentry above the entrance, setting the tone for the playful luxury within. Owner Noel Hayden calls it a love letter to family and his childhood, which he spent at his parents’ Bournemouth guesthouse. The affection is palpable. Don’t miss rooftop bar Flute, where summer spritzes come with skyline views and silver ceiling tiles shimmer after dark.
20 Broadwick Street,
London W1F 8TH
broadwicksoho.com
GAGOSIAN
The crown jewel in Gagosian’s London constellation, the Grosvenor Hill gallery is a world-class offering in the heart of Mayfair. Designed by acclaimed architects Caruso St John, the space pairs double-height exhibition halls with more intimate rooms, all with the same purpose: to honour ambitious works of contemporary art. A recent highlight was the London debut of Ghanaian artist Amoako Boafo, whose figurative portraits radiated against the gallery’s stark backdrop. Tucked behind the leafy Berkeley Square, the gallery’s location makes it a discreet but unmissable destination for art aficionados. Come to Mayfair for a thoughtful (and free) exhibition to remind yourself of the power of well-calibrated curation.
20 Grosvenor Hill,
London W1K 3QD
gagosian.com
DUKES BAR
A place of pilgrimage for martini lovers, Dukes Bar remains a cornerstone of classic London hospitality. Ian Fleming was a regular (yes, the “shaken, not stirred” line was coined here), and the bar team still dresses the part in white jackets. Tableside service is a performance: a gleaming trolley, gin or vodka pulled fresh from the freezer and a twist of Amalfi lemon to finish. The rules are simple: walk-ins only and never order more than two martinis. The Dukes hotel might be under renovation, but thankfully the bar is still up and pouring – a temple to ritual, restraint and refreshment. In a city of change, Dukes stands its ground with impeccable poise.
35 St James’s Place,
London SW1A 1NY
dukeshotel.com
South London has long done things its own way – and that independent spirit is part
of its charm. Taking in the likes of Borough Market through to Camberwell, Peckham, Herne Hill and more, this is a patchwork of creative enclaves, leafy neighbourhoods and vibrant high streets. You’ll find elegant Georgian terraces and lively watering holes, experimental kitchens, farmers’ markets and microbreweries – often all on the same street. It’s a little looser round the edges than its cousins north of the river, but that’s precisely what gives the area its soul. South London doesn’t try too hard – and in doing so, it gets a lot just right.
South.
LULU’S
Somewhere between wine bar, grocer and deli, Lulu’s is book-lined, light and welcoming. It’s also tiny, with just 20 seats, all facing onto the square outside Herne Hill station. By day there’s coffee and other standard café fare, but at night the counters clear and it becomes a candlelit bar with low-intervention wines from Georgia and Slovenia, plus a small cocktail list (try the marmalade martini). The small plates are equally creative: squid with artichoke, pink firs and mojo rojo; goat’s curd and egg yolk raviolo with sage, hazelnut and Périgord truffle. A perfect stop after Herne Hill Market.
291 Railton Road, London SE24 0JP
lulus.london
TOAD BAKERY
Mention Toad Bakery to a Camberwell local and expect effusive praise; many claim it’s the best in London. Certainly the weekend queues are hyperbolic, often snaking around the corner. Its creativity helps to explain the appeal, the shelves stocking yuzu Jaffa cakes, croissant-bagel hybrids and Persian “love” puddings for Valentine’s Day. It also has a flair for seasonal produce: think mushroom-heavy sandwiches or asparagus and wild garlic-filled “barrel” pastries. Go in for a cinnamon bun, leave with something unexpected.
44 Peckham Road, London SE5 8PX
toadbakery.com
LALA BOOKS
This small indie bookshop features a thoughtful selection of contemporary fiction, translated literature, small press titles and children’s books. The site was formerly a popular deli, and the owner, Danielle Moylan, has brought back its excellent coffee. It’s a peaceful, literary stop for Camberwell locals and visitors alike.
4a Grove Lane, London SE5 8SY
lalabooks.london
THE KERFIELD ARMS
A newcomer to Camberwell’s dining scene, The Kerfield Arms combines pub charm with a refined menu. The interiors are understated and warm, and the menu is confident and seasonal: taramasalata with fried pizza dough, smoked tomatoes with sea beets, Highland rump and Pommes Anna. It’s especially worth a visit at the weekend for its lunch deal.
16 Grove Lane, London SE5 8SY
thekerfieldarms.co.uk
OMA
Oma might have a Michelin star but it resists fine-dining formality. The restaurant sits above Borough Market and offers a modern Greek menu that includes yellowfin tuna with clementine ponzu and oxtail giouvetsi with bone marrow. Refined but relaxed, it’s a culinary highlight of South London.
3 Bedale Street, London SE1 9AL
oma.london
Genteel, tree-lined West London hides its secrets well. While its rarefied squares and stately streets might seem aloof at first encounter, they belie a characterful, warm-blooded essence. Even if you are familiar with the classics – not least, Notting Hill’s Portobello Road for trinkets and film scene re-enactments – look a little further and you’ll find a treasure trove of delights. Neighbourhood deli-cafés, homely drinking holes, stalwart bookshops and eclectic architectural gems await.
West.
SOL’S
The minimalist front of Sol’s beckons from the quiet surrounds of leafy Leinster Terrace. Inside, low-intervention wines take up most of the drinks list alongside a generous selection of small plates. A long, communal table centres the space, or you can perch on one of the metal stools around the bar. Naturally, the whole menu is designed to share. Food writer Mina Holland curates the wines, while chef Harry Farrow heads the kitchen. The menu is ever-changing – pull up a seat and ask your neighbour what’s good.
25 Leinster Terrace, London W2 3ET
sols.london
LEIGHTON HOUSE
The grandeur of Leighton House has to be seen to be understood. Just off Holland Park, it’s a mix of Venetian palazzo and Arabian Nights. Home of the painter Frederic Leighton, its Arab Hall glitters with tiles from Damascus and a gold dome. Beneath his winter studio there’s now a café – ideal for a light bite after exploring.
12 Holland Park Road, London W14 8LZ
rbkc.gov.uk/museums
JOHN SANDOE BOOKS
A literary gem in Chelsea, John Sandoe Books spans three terrace houses filled with handpicked titles. Its cosy, meandering interiors invite exploration, and its loyal fanbase includes writers and literary lovers from across London. Pick up a tote bag with your latest read – a quiet badge of bibliophile honour.
10 Blacklands Terrace, London SW3 2SR
johnsandoe.com
DOVE
Once Jackson Boxer’s Orasay, Dove is now a refined and relaxed dining spot with dishes like pizzette with bonito, raw scallop and a 50-day aged beef burger with gorgonzola. Even the desserts shine: fior di latte soft serve with olive oil and oat cookies. A modern West London essential.
31 Kensington Park Road, London W11 2EU
dove.london
TWICE SHY
Hidden near Earl’s Court station, Twice Shy is a tiny cocktail bar led by ex-Savoy mixologist Elon Soddu. Drinks are named after just two ingredients – like scotch bonnet and blackberry – and the focus is on flavour. Grab a stool, enjoy a focaccia sandwich and savour the inventive cocktail craft.
14 Hogarth Place, London SW5 0QT
twiceshy.co.uk