Escultura clásica en el patio de un palacio romano — guía de Roma de Alexander Werz para Massimo Dutti
October, 26 Travel

Alexander Werz’s Secret Rome

Alexander Werz shares his most personal Rome: historic palazzos, secret gardens and favourite meeting places, each offering an experience of its own.

Portrait of Alexander Werz, head of Karla Otto — Massimo Dutti Paper

(   Alexander Werz   )

Alexander Werz has built his career at the intersection of fashion, communications and culture. Born in Stuttgart and educated in Paris, he heads Karla Otto, one of the industry’s leading international agencies. His interest in art, architecture and interiors extends well beyond his professional life: he collects design pieces and has a discerning eye for detail. A seasoned traveller and passionate host, he gets to know cities through their spaces and everyday rituals. In this guide, he shares his personal Rome, from his favourite palazzos and museums to places that provide the setting for unforgettable encounters.

@alexanderwerz

01

(     A Sunday Morning in Rome     )

The obelisk of Piazza del Popolo against a blue sky — Rome
( Rome )Piazza del Popolo
Domes of the twin churches of Piazza del Popolo — Rome

( M. D. )What does your perfect Sunday morning in Rome look like?

( A. W. )

My perfect Sunday morning in Rome starts early, with a run or a walk around Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna, before the city gets too crowded. I really value those quiet moments to myself.

I used to stop at Caffè Greco for a cappuccino before heading back to the hotel. It was one of my favourite Roman rituals, and I miss it now that the café has closed.

The oculus of the Pantheon dome — Rome

02

(     The Roman Ritual     )

Pine trees and ancient ruins in Rome

( M. D. )Which everyday Roman ritual do you find most alluring?

( A. W. )

I love walking through Rome before the working day begins. There is always something to discover: a church where you least expect one, a beautiful architectural detail or a glimpse into a spectacular courtyard.

I am particularly fascinated by the palazzos of the great Roman families, where centuries of art and decoration remain woven into the fabric of the city.

And, of course, no morning in Rome would be complete without an espresso or cappuccino at a café and a little time to read the international newspapers.

Classical Renaissance windows of a Roman palazzo
( Rome )Classical Renaissance windows
Ochre façade with windows and shutters in Rome

03

(     Secrets of the Eternal City     )

Columns of the Roman Forum at dusk — Rome
( Rome )Roman Forum
The Roman Forum lit up at night — Rome

( M. D. )What is your hidden gem in Rome?

( A. W. )

One of my most memorable experiences in the city was visiting the Roman Forum at midnight.

Walking among the ruins while listening to stories of what had happened in those very streets centuries earlier allowed me to experience the place from an entirely different perspective.

At that hour, the distance between past and present seemed to narrow. It was a truly magical way to take in the grandeur of Rome by moonlight.

The oculus of a Roman dome at night

04

(     A First Glimpse     )

Dome of the Sala Rotonda in the Vatican Museums — Rome
( Rome )Dome of the Sala Rotonda

( M. D. )Where would you take a close friend visiting Rome for the first time?

( A. W. )

I would take them to the Vatican Museums, which remain my favourite museums in Rome. Ideally, we would go early in the morning or arrange a private visit.

Their collections offer an extraordinary insight into the history and power of the Church, as well as the imagination and craftsmanship of the artists who worked there over the centuries.

If possible, I would include a walk through the gardens and, of course, a visit to the Sistine Chapel. It is one of those experiences that stays with you forever.

Courtyard of the Palazzo dei Conservatori with sculpture fragments — Rome
( Rome )Palazzo dei Conservatori
Classical sculpture in the Museo Pio-Clementino, Vatican Museums — Rome
( Rome )Museo Pio-Clementino

05

(     A City of Views     )

Villa Medici at sunset — Rome
( Rome )Villa Medici
Pine trees and villa in the gardens of Villa Medici — Rome

( M. D. )Where can you find the most beautiful views of Rome?

( A. W. )

For me, one of the most beautiful views of Rome is from Villa Medici, especially towards the end of the day.

The golden light bathing the city lends everything a wonderful softness and allows you to appreciate how its rooftops, domes and many layers of history fit together.

Window overlooking the rooftops of Rome

06

(     Getting Lost in Rome     )

Ceiling frescoes with birds in a Roman palazzo

( M. D. )Where is your favourite place in Rome to spend time alone?

( A. W. )

I love visiting Rome’s historic residences and art collections on my own, especially Galleria Doria Pamphilj, Galleria Corsini and Villa Farnesina.

Being alone allows me to take my time and linger over the details that catch my eye.

I also enjoy visiting my friends’ shop, Chez Dédé. There is always something beautiful to discover, from porcelain and glassware to accessories and lovely home linens.

Gallery with curtains and paintings in a historic residence — Rome
Sculpture in a room of a Roman palazzo

07

(     Aperitivo Hour     )

Palm tree and façade at dusk — Rome
Window with a view of the dome of St Peter's — Rome

( M. D. )What does your ideal Roman aperitivo look like?

( A. W. )

I always find myself returning to Hotel de Russie, especially its garden.

A Negroni, attentive service and the pleasure of discovering that friends are also in town make it one of my favourite places to start the evening.

I love how effortless it feels. You can arrive without much of a plan and end up in wonderful company.

Garden with a statue in a Roman villa

08

(     Dinner in Rome     )

Street sign of Piazza Navona — Rome

( M. D. )Where would you book a table for the perfect Roman dinner?

( A. W. )

There are two places I particularly love.

When the weather allows, I would choose Santa Lucia and sit outside in its little garden near Piazza Navona.

Otherwise, another favourite is Al Moro, near the Trevi Fountain.

They are both restaurants I return to time and again.

Trevi Fountain — Rome
( Rome )Fontana di Trevi
Restaurant terrace on a square in Rome

09

(     The Art of Sharing a Table     )

Wheels of cheese in a shop in Rome
Fresh pasta in a shop window in Rome

( M. D. )You are hosting friends for dinner in Rome. Where do you source everything?

( A. W. )

When it comes to gathering friends around a table in Rome, Pierluigi and Dal Bolognese Roma are two of my favourite places.

Both perfectly capture what I enjoy most about an evening in the city: delicious food, good company and that distinctly Roman pleasure of taking your time.

Window of a food shop in Rome

10

(     After Midnight     )

Restaurant lit up at night in Rome

( M. D. )Where does Rome reveal its most seductive side after midnight?

( A. W. )

I would have to say Muccassassina.

After a long dinner and a good conversation, there is nothing quite like changing the pace of the evening and heading out for a late-night dance.

The Colosseum at night — Rome
A Roman street at night